Friday, October 9, 2020

Xiao Liuqiu - Taiwan's Coral Island

Xiao Liuqiu is known by the Taiwanese as "the pearl of the sea" and not without good reason. This tiny coral island, which offers some of the best snorkeling, hiking, sunbathing, and dining options in all of Taiwan, has reinvented itself as a peaceful alternative to some of the country's more crowded attractions. Its easy accessibility, fascinating colonial history, and recently upgraded tourist infrastructure have made the island one of Taiwan’s best year-round destinations.

No matter what your interests are, you will find a pleasant way to pass the time on Xiao Liuqui. Snorkeling is one of the most popular activities, as evidenced by the many snorkeling shops on Minsheng Road (民生路). Take a map and head to the coast – you will see snorkeling signs wherever there is an interesting cover or a worthwhile dive spot. Also, do not be afraid to ask the locals where they suggest; tidal and seasonal variations will dictate the best places to view unusual sea creatures. It is generally recommended that you wear a full wetsuit – there just might be jellyfish or spiny urchins sharing the waters with you.

In addition to snorkeling, there are many other daytime activities. Check out one of the quiet beaches, go hiking, explore the island’s villages, visit a temple, or gaze at one of the many bizarre coral formations. The most famous among the coral formations is Vase Rock (花瓶岩), an icon of Xiao Liuqiu that towers nine meters above a shallow bay near Baisha Harbor (白沙漁港碼頭).

Most visitors who travel to Xiao Liuqiu take the 13km ride around the perimeter of the island. You can comfortably finish the entire ride in less than 30 minutes, and the views are awe inspiring.

If relaxing is more your style, try taking a walk on one of Xiao Liuqiu’s many beaches. The golden sand beach of Zhongao (中澳) is probably the smoothest and prettiest, as it is relatively unencumbered by chunks of sharp coral. Don’t eschew the rockier beaches near the caves, as the views can be gorgeous, and you’ll likely meet locals selling seashells and tiny bottles of hand-picked start-shaped sand grains (星砂). A shell-sand beach like Geban Bay (蛤板灣), which is near Black Ghost Cave, might just be the perfect place for an afternoon swim or a picnic lunch.

Climbing along the winding paths and steep cliffs of Black Ghost Cave (烏鬼洞) and Beauty Cave (美人洞), Xiao Liuqiu’s legends lend an air of mystery to the already surreal landscape.

Black Ghost Cave, which was the site of a 17th century battle between the Dutch and the native islanders, got its name – and its legendary ghostly residents – as a result of this tragic moment. It is said that up to 300 aboriginal men, women and children perished when Dutch forces cornered them in the cave and burned tar at the entrance to poison the air inside.

Beauty Cave, too, has a curious history of its own. After having fled the Chinese mainland to avoid the invading Manchus, a Ming dynasty official and his daughter shipwrecked on Xiao Liuqiu’s reef. Upon the death of her father, it is said the beatiful girl bit off her own tongue. The cave was named in her memory.


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