Friday, December 15, 2023

Alishan, Chiayi: "Toe'uana" – The Promised Land, Taiwan's Gassho-zukuri, Indigenous Culinary Delights, and a Fairytale Setting

Located in the Laiji Tribe of Alishan, Chiayi, Taiwan, the "Toe'uana" permanent housing community is often referred to as the version of "Gassho-zukuri of Taiwan." With fewer than 50 chalets, the settlement intentionally spaces the houses widely apart to preserve the natural landscape. From a distance, it appears as if scattered like chess pieces, creating a charming and picturesque scene. The colorful walls and slanted roofs complement each other, resembling a scene from an isolated wonderful tale.

To visit "Toe'uana," one must travel to the Laiji Tribe in Alishan. If driving is not an option, public transportation involves taking the Chiayi Alishan Forest Railway to the "Duolin" train station and then walking approximately 2.9 kilometers for about 40 minutes to reach Toe'uana. Alternatively, visitors can arrange transportation with local bed and breakfast operators in the tribe.

The name "Toe'uana" signifies a place blessed by the heavens. In the Tsou indigenous language, "亞納" means "there," while "得恩" implies receiving divine grace. Thus, the village's name can be interpreted as the "Promised Land."

Established in 2009 after the severe impact of Typhoon Morakot on the Laiji Tribe in Alishan, some residents, concerned for their safety, relocated to Toe'uana in 2015. According to the villagers, the decision to construct houses with Gassho-style slanted roofs was driven by the anticipation of potential snowfall in the future. The elevated foundations aim to minimize landscape disruption and contribute to soil and water conservation.


At the entrance of the village, there is a large stone monument engraved with the "Toe'uana Resettlement Chronicle." Interested friends can explore it on their own.

嘉義阿里山《得恩亞納》永久屋,每一戶人家都有其獨特的門牌,住戶會依據自己的家徽將之做成裝置藝術。 嘉義阿里山《得恩亞納》永久屋,每一戶人家都有其獨特的門牌,住戶會依據自己的家徽將之做成裝置藝術。
In the permanent houses of "Toe'uana" in Alishan, Chiayi, each household has a unique doorplate. Residents turn them into installation art based on their family crests.


For lunch, we chose "Zou Tribe Women's Private Kitchen" at "Toe'uana" permanent houses. Fortunately, there were still available dishes that day. It's advisable to make a reservation in advance, as food preparation may be limited without one. Many households in the area also sell meals and handmade crafts, but it's best to inquire beforehand.

 
The dining environment at "Zou Tribe Women's Private Kitchen" is filled with vines, and since it's not entirely indoors, there might be some small insects—nothing to worry about.

阿里山得恩亞納【鄒族女人的私房菜】
The menu at "Zou Tribe Women's Private Kitchen" is almost fixed, with the option of a special dish not listed. It includes six courses with five-color rice, priced at NT350 per person. The dishes are all exquisite and delicious.

阿里山得恩亞納【鄒族女人的私房菜】。苦瓜佐紫地瓜。第一道菜就讓人驚豔,苦瓜不僅沒有苦澀味,居然帶著微甜,上面的紫色為地瓜上色。
Bitter melon with purple sweet potato. The first dish is surprisingly delightful, with bitter melon not having a bitter taste but a hint of sweetness, and the purple color on top is from sweet potato.

阿里山得恩亞納【鄒族女人的私房菜】。悶南瓜。南瓜已經悶到軟爛,但又不失口感,上面佐以葡萄乾及堅果種子調色。
Steamed pumpkin. The pumpkin is tender but retains its texture, complemented by raisins and nut seeds for added color.

阿里山得恩亞納【鄒族女人的私房菜】。跑路白斬雞。這雞肉的嚼感非常好,使用馬告及花椒及青蔥調味,還帶著點香草的氣味。
Roasted white-cut chicken. The chicken has a great chewy texture, seasoned with basil, Sichuan pepper, and green onions, with a hint of a herbal fragrance.

阿里山得恩亞納【鄒族女人的私房菜】。調皮搗蛋。鹹鴨蛋配皮蛋佐以炒花生及洋蔥,互相搭配居然非常的協調。洋蔥不辛微甜,給味蕾加分不少。
Mischievous eggs. Salted duck eggs paired with century eggs, fried peanuts, and onions surprisingly coordinate well. The onions are slightly sweet, adding extra points to the taste buds.

阿里山得恩亞納【鄒族女人的私房菜】。山豬肉。原住民的特色美食。
Wild boar meat. A specialty of the indigenous people.

阿里山得恩亞納【鄒族女人的私房菜】。鯖魚佐紫蘇梅。使用挪威鯖魚燒烤,搭配店家自製的梅子。
Mackerel with perilla plum. Grilled Norwegian mackerel paired with homemade plum sauce.

阿里山得恩亞納【鄒族女人的私房菜】
Five-color rice. Additional rice is complimentary.


View of "Zou Tribe Women's Private Kitchen" in Alishan Toe'uana.


Left Image: Contact information for "Zou Tribe Women's Private Kitchen" in Alishan Toe'uana. Right Image: Cats kept by "Zou Tribe Women's Private Kitchen" in Alishan Toe'uana.


Decorations inside the restaurant of "Zou Tribe Women's Private Kitchen" in Alishan Toe'uana.


A corner of the restaurant at "Zou Tribe Women's Private Kitchen" in Alishan Toe'uana.


Forgot what this plant is called.

 
After the meal, take a stroll around the Toe'uana community in Alishan.

嘉義阿里山來吉部落得恩亞納社區,美得像是童話世界的台灣村落嘉義阿里山來吉部落得恩亞納社區

阿里山得恩亞納社區散步地圖
Walking map of the Toe'uana community in Alishan (click to enlarge).


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